A trip into the gravel ... variations on red

Monday, 11 April 2011 04:27

Visit national parks in the western United States, was one of things not to miss for us. They were enrolled in the program from the start of the festivities. With time and our configuration, they appeared as they are infeasible by bicycle . Whatever, we'll drive, you sometimes do not know too simply adapt and bypassing the lines that we set for ourselves in terms of nature travel.

It is also not the first time we deviate from our degrowth ideas, but after consulting our consciences, we are quite reasonable. This commits us (JR and me), and children as an integral part of the family plot have no other choice but to follow suit but they will do what they want when they grow up ... and then be surprised that they are not influenced slightly by the parent model

Well, here I digress, go motor road, you drive.
Seven days rental, a tour of 1200 miles, a dozen sites all the more exceptional than the others and make us envy, hours of operation to take advantage of each park, and night falls at 17h. It is not complicated we'll have to hurry and especially to choose.

The first, largest, the only really known in the world is the Grand Canyon National Park. We discover that there are two ways to approach it: North Rim and South Rim. North Rim is on our route, we try to access this knowing that it is not recommended after mid-October. We are November 10th, as we ascend in altitude the weather becomes clogged. We finally give up and turn around before arriving at 2700m altitude because the snow is falling more and harder. We still have access to South which a detour of 215 miles is to be done.

At the end of the day, we drive south, in landscapes absolutely fabulous. The dominant red rocks carved by erosion from water and wind, the spaces are huge. Pedaling in this scenery sould have been incredible, for sure! The air of nothing, the windscreen of the car cut panoramic vision, we have to stop often to admire.

Overnight stop at a campsite in self-management in the middle of Marble Canyon. At this location there, you can swim in Colorado (summer of course).

We head back to South Rim early. The detour can get a passage to a place where the canyon is narrower. At Lee's Ferry we go out on the metal bridge used before 1993 by Navajo Indians to cross the River. Considered too dangerous to traffic, the cars now borrow its twin brother built next door. We're lucky to see a condor, which we also observed, 5 meters below cons.

We then cross the vast Navajo reservation in Arizona, before rising high in the forest to reach South Rim Village just over 2000m.
Finally here is the canyon in its widest part, the panorama is breathtaking, it is impressive. Words can not describe it, it must be to feel the vastness and beauty of the place.
The site is very touristy, we easily find explanations on the formation of the canyon, its imposing size, the different geological layers. This week we zap a little the CNED, we can not do everything, but the kids record so many things here, live, in English, that it passes without remorse! They will accumulate a little further behind ...

We start quite late for a walk on the marked path along the abyss, there's juice and we do not let go of the hands of two small, then we continue with a tourist bus until sunset.
The facility is still at the campsite at night. For that, the headlights are handy, and we fall asleep to the coldest night of our trip. Upon awakening, everything is frozen, including condensation on downs. The temperature dropped to 13 degrees F or -10 ° C.

Time to thaw the family and the material, and we leave to the east towards Monument Valley in the border states of Utah and Arizona. And it takes us almost day since we arrived just in time to see the monuments lit by the sun. Since the filming of a John Ford western starring John Wayne in the valley, the site remains one of the executives' favorite photographers and filmmakers.

The buttes and hands are the remains of witnesses by wind erosion and geological processes over millennia on the Colorado Plateau. Monument Valley is also the center of a community of Navajo Indians who have preserved their traditions, their language, their arts and their pastoral lifestyle, based on sheep farming, and their relationship with traditional and harmonious earth. Monument Valley is now protected in a Navajo Tribal Park (Park of the Tribe).

Again, it is superb. Unfortunately, we arrived a bit late to camp on the site and enjoy the sunrise live. The gate leading to the campground is already closed.
We find a campsite in the village closest to Goulding. Night fell a long time. We discover in the morning we slept in a decorative red and ocher.

Program the following day, reaching the town of Moab in northwest Utah, while the step Natural Bridge Park. We leave this magical place, not without looking back a dozen times to admire the special lighting on the morning of Monuments.

Natural Bridge Park, here we are. There are so many rides to do, where to start? We are targeting two, which seem interesting after the doc received at the park entrance. The trek full seven hours to walk along the river and go under the arches is not in our timing ... and that is unfortunate.The bridges were carved over time by the river in the canyon.

It is time to join the largest city in these countries with its 5500 inhabitants. Moab, young atmosphere and mountain sports, but not "son papa" and "thou hast seen", it is rather quiet and zen, you see what I mean? The city is located not far from Arches and Cayonland
The day is over, Arches National Park await tomorrow. In any case, given the many treks possible, we need daily, minimum. We have a thought for Scott and Stacy from Alberta who regularly spend their holidays here.

This region of rocks and red ocher, which change color with the sun, has the largest number of arches and other rock formations in the world. About 500 arches resulting from 150 million years of combined action of rivers, wind, rain, frost and sun.

The park is divided into five sections connected by 34km of road passable by car. We tried to make one or two trips for each zone, but the longest have been systematically put aside. The five parties are the order of appearance: The entrance to the park "Park Avenue" - The Windows Section - Delicate Arch - Fiery Furnace, Devils Garden Area, with geological formations that are representative of the given name. We can not approach Delicate Arch, the arch of the most famous symbol and places of Utah. The hike is almost 5km to go, no comment.

A campground is located just before Devils Garden. It is not yet night, we decided to put off until tomorrow the rest of the visit and we ask to take a little of this magical place. We choose a site in the rocks, the children are really happy. There is, enough romp, climb, slide and let off steam, as in a real amusement park. After those miles and miles in a locked car, the euphoria! That they no longer used to be contained, after nearly six months of outdoor life. We understand why Roy and Claire (the children of Scott and Stacy, are you still following?) prefer coming here rather than Disneyland!

At 1700m altitude, the night was cold. In the morning, while we try to warm up with hot tea, which we see happen? Claire and Roy, followed by their parents, who have recognized our tents. They were installed just a few pitches from us. What a surprise! Immediately the kids start playing together in the decor, such as real chamois, parents chatter few months ago. Maëlle retrieves Claire's little bike, and again a few laps without the pedal threads.

The call of the road, it's time to leave. Goodbye friends, this time I do not know if it will cross again someday, but we all keep good memories of our meetings.
Stop just above, a time to chat with Gilles, Sylvie and their two children Arthur and Adrian, the French south west, driving from Halifax to join Panama, in a VW combi.

In the beginning (well into the rest) 6th day, back in Moab in the rain to enjoy a moment of respite in a coffee shop while trying to think about optimizing the little time remaining ... O time, halt ...
Straight cuts required, especially as it is completely the opposite of the state of Utah from St. George, we take the wise (?) decision go through Bryce Canyon, one day route, then eventually Zion, perhaps.

We drive all afternoon, in landscapes of any beauty, a pass at 9300 feet, snow, Boulder, Escalante and it arises, it is already night.

Finally Bryce Canyon National Park, after a climb through a forest of pines, was discovered approaching the edge of the canyon as spectacular views. The show is simply huge. We billeted first few observation posts on top of the "amphitheater" hoodoos compounds in orange shades. Can we allow ourselves a little hiking, downhill air drawn into the canyon in the middle of the pillars of balanced rocks.

Finally, Zion National Park, where we travel only by car the scenic route along the Virgin River in the canyon.

Back in late at Dace's house, where our bikes stayed, head full of images of these wonders of nature. We appreciate the comfort of the guest room and the evening debrief with him. Dace offers us a ride to Las Vegas the next day to spare us the 120 miles of desert that we accept willingly. A big thank you to everyone for this great family home!

Review of the week: All the superlatives are good to express the beauty and grandeur of the landscape. We have taken so many unforgettable experiences in concentrated in a week. The children have undoubtedly preferred Arches, certainly for the fun aspect, Bryce has inspired me and leads to contemplation

But ... We can say that we ran, feeling ever lived, we remember a day in Yellowstone. A great regret of not being able to stay longer in each of the parks have had to make a choice and zap some other wonders as Antelope Canyon, Paria Canyon, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Lake Powell, death Horse Mesa verde and more ... Of course the idea of ​​taking two, three weeks of "vacation" in the journey we had touched, except ... time, budget ...

Finally, just a little advice to give, it is absolutely necessary to provide a minimum of one day for each park, and even more depth to the visit if you like walking.

MC