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Tuesday, 01 February 2011 09:19
carnets
After the Pacific beaches, direction the central mountains. When leaving the coast, it rises. Here, no plains. This time we travel by day on a bus where the driver rolls quietly. Night comes quickly, we have the stress of another time, when we traveled with bike: we make haste to install the camp ... but now, at 19h, in town, there's always light, and can quickly find something to eat and sleep!
We arrived in Taxco, a small town clinging to the mountains. The hotel located on a map is only 200 m from the bus station, but 200m climb to at least 45 °, with bags on back. A rappel rope would have been welcome! The street is barely wider than a car and every time a taxi tumbling, we are pressed against the wall.
Casa Grande is in the center. We take a room with two double beds, located on the top terrace. Which overlooks a lively square with a continual ballet of taxis and colectivos. In Mexico, we had already noticed the large number of old Volkswagen vehicles in service, in Taxco taxis are white ladybugs and colectivos (minibuses) and combis (vans Nissan gradually replacing the Volkswagen Combi).
In the morning we discover the city. Beautiful city, built on a mountainside, which kept its hidden past. The streets are paved and lined with pretty houses with roofs covered with tiles of Mediterranean type. The city is a maze of steep alleys. Hits for several days of exploration. The market is equally impressive, a maze of alleys in the image where it is installed, it's hard not to lose. Each square is used, no loss. It's going to stand still in the halls, the old woman sitting on stairs with three bean sprouts and two packages of live insects (yes, here it is eaten raw or cooked: )
The town of Taxco is also famous for its many silver shops witness the rich history of mining. The tourists stop here to refuel jewelry. And then, Taxco is also part of the history of Barcelonnettes from making a fortune in Mexico in the nineteenth century. It's just a nod to friends from Barcelonnette in Alpes de Haute Provence.
We spent much time walking the city aimlessly. A little exercise first, with the climb, random street to the statue of Cristo, the very top. The view is breathtaking. We enjoyed Plaza Borda, called "El Zocalo", on the banks of the small central garden, watching the comings and goings of Mexicans and tourists watching taxis turning around without stopping. On Sunday, the place breaks records animation due to its location facing the immense cathedral of Santa Prisca, shoeshine boys take out their equipment, Mexicans well dressed up just chatting, gambling, medical booths installed nearby on the forecourt of the church.
A negative point, perhaps the only, is the incessant traffic of cars, mostly taxis, which follow one after the other, and the pollution that goes with it. Few streets are pedestrian only.
Next destination, Oaxaca, but the bus makes a stop in Puebla and all the backpackers guides mention it as a not-to-be-missed town ... we're going to Puebla!
Puebla is one of the largest city in Mexico, close to two million inhabitants, it is for this reason it was not too keen to dwell. We are at almost 2200 m altitude, and the city is surrounded by three volcanoes surrounding the 5000 m.
We do not have too much trouble finding a hotel not too expensive, and walked a little bit of the historical center. The city is flat, that we rely Taxco!
The center of the city consists of houses from the colonial era, some of which are decorated facades, the full height of multicolored tiles. These tiles made the reputation of Puebla in the world. We took pictures of these facades, each more beautiful than others, for our collection of windows and doors.
As usual, we run the center and down, aimlessly. Small break on the benches of Central Park or at a sidewalk cafe to take the temperature of this city. On a different note, the temperature is slightly cooler due to the altitude, but nothing unpleasant, we need to put long sleeves in the early morning and evening!
We find here, tacos from 6 pesos. These are tacos Arab or Oriental, the equivalent of our kebabs. Roast meat on a pedestal in front of resistance, just the same. Very good, we baptize immediately kebabs tacos.
We take advantage of Tuesday free to visit some museums, including the folk art museum with an exhibition of paintings by the painter Jose Luis Velasquez Zarate, reminiscent Chaissac, according to Thomas and another exhibition on toys star wars, nothing to do with the previous ...
We look forward to arriving in Oaxaca but two of the girls caught a cold, probably in the bus, and we stay an extra day so that they are fixed up a bit.
That's it, we here in Oaxaca. It goes straight to the hostel spotted on the LP. But this time is full, or I suspect the manager was afraid to have children ... The city is great, the bags are heavy, children moan. The technique is now at the point: we arise in a park and one of us as a scout, guide in hand, in search of shelter. This time, I need a good two hours to find something not too expensive. We hoped to find a rental in the following days but no way, prices are too high here.
The very next day we set out to explore this colonial city famous for its handicrafts and culinary delights. The streets are quiet, the houses are very colorful. The ride is nice.
Petit tour of the market, with Pascal, Jean-José and Bertrand, three French met at the coffee. You can find all market Oaxacan specialties. At the entrance, women sell a lot of chapulines, in other words, roasted grasshoppers. No thank you, not for me, but boys have tasted ... it's salty. Inside, there are lots of spices, chillies, fruits and vegetables and quesillo, cheese, stringy and without much taste. A little further on is the area of soft, spicy chocolate.
The market and the many craft shops are also very nice, with textiles, ceramics and beautiful Alebrijes, little imaginary animals carved in wood and painted in bright colors.
We spend a lot of time in the zocalo, good lively during the day and evening. Musicians of all kinds, good and bad, Mariachis, local bands, clowns, there're something for everyone, not to mention the hawkers stalls ice cream, balloons and polishing shoes. Having always look like tourists, Indians always ask us to buy fabrics and all kinds of handicrafts.
Mallorie and Thomas were very eager to see an archaeological site of ancient civilizations, maybe they thought meet the Mayas as we have crossed cowboys and Indians farther north? Monte Alban is an ancient city Zapothèque just 10 km from Oaxaca and 500 meters higher. We can not miss it. Unfortunately, we only saw groups of tourists, guides and sellers of pseudo treasures, not even a shadow of Zapothèque! But we have learned many things about the organization of this city, built on top of a mountain whose summit was struck for nearly two centuries, and its astronomical observatory that allowed the stall on the agricultural calendar stars .
We will complete the visit to the convent of the Santo Dominguo which houses a fascinating museum about the different cultures existing or having existed around Oaxaca. The diversity of the exhibition is interesting as well as leather jewelry, musical instruments, bronze, weapons ... and the treasures found in the tomb No. 7 Monte Alban ... TA TA TAN ...
In short, it was enough to spend six days in this charming city.
MC
photos
Patience !
bonus
You will find lots of information historical, geographical, cultural, tourist on many Mexican cities on the site http://www.mexique-voyage.com/, it save me to copy and paste.
Taxco
Casa Grande, 500 M$ for a 4-bed room with bathroom and hot water (Um, the hot water tank must be exhausted ...), WIFI. The rooms on the 3rd enjoy the sunny terrace overlooking the Plazuela San Juan center. Quite noisy in the evening but it has the advantage of being on site for concerts at the bar on the 1st floor
A good option for many: Hotel Casa de Huespedes, 140 M$ per person. Quieter, terrace. The manager speaks English. No WiFi. Located close to the municipal market.
Puebla
San Augustin hotel, not far from the historic center, 410 M$ a room with 2 queen beds with breakfast included, it breaks no great shakes, a little austere, but it's cheap.
Las Ranas, the food is very good tacos "kebab" from 8 M$.
The museums are free on Tuesday
Oaxaca
Mayflower Inn, 520 M$ traded on 5 bed dorm. Kitchen available, the patio is nice. Just off the Plaza Santo Dominguo.
Pan & Coffee Co is nice, but mostly there are good French breads and pastries that did not taste rancid butter here.
Among our favorite coffee Los cuilos: quiet atmosphere, nice music and wifi, near a small market for artisans and artists, tlayudas (another specialty) and sandwiches not too expensive.
Café Royal for its coffee and crepes (Nutella whipped cream or strawberries, it was not a trick)
The Zocalo is alive at night: mariachi, bands, and clowns.
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