travelog

We move to Guatemala, Central America country, very popular and we always come with a good a priori ... Immigration is going smoothly in just five minutes and nothing to pay entry. The flock of "white" to which we belong, crosses the border on foot and jumped into another minibus to Panajachel, on Lake Atitlan, a popular destination, we read that it is one of the most beautiful lake in the world!

The road winds along the valleys, sometimes up, sometimes down, in a mid-mountain terrain like in the south of France, although it is between 2000 and 3000 m high. The only difference is that exotic species grow among the hardwoods and conifers.
The habitat is also different from what we've seen so far, with small adobe houses scattered across the countryside. Throughout the road you can see the sheets filled with a variety of berries drying in the sun. We need a little time to understand that it's coffee.

The last ten kilometers are impressive as the slope is steep. The view over the lake in late afternoon is indeed magnificent! We land in the city shortly before dusk, just enough time to find a small hotel, very cheap but not really terrible. It will do one night. We check immediately what we could read several times, namely the heating system for water from the shower when it exists. It is simply an electric circuit above the knob, sometimes rudimentary, as here, son, bare pieces of tape ... you just have to say that we are not the first to go through it!

Pana's main street is a series of shops and stalls selling local crafts, restaurants and comedors and travel agencies. It is here that almost all the tourist activity. Slightly down the street to join the famous lake and its public and private docks.
Earlier in the city is the market with a significantly higher activity on Sunday.

There are also the usual panaderia let us renew with which we, the rancid butter Mexican who disappeared! The tortillerias are also there, but also craft: mechanics and two disappeared several women gathered around a pile of corn dough (recipe apparently kept secret ...) and shape the patties by hand, striking a small ball of dough as they cheered, before putting them to cook on a large hot plate. They are thus several meters mark, like a concert at 4, 6 or 8 hands.

In any case, we find more people smiling and a great kindness in comparison with Mexico that we just left. Although it is the poorest country in Central America, people are less likely to beg in the streets. Unlike Mexico, a sense of security prevails even if we can see the guards armed with big guns absolutely everywhere, even to escort the trucks from Coca (Coca-Cola understand, eh!).

Pana, faces three volcanoes and the view is indeed beautiful clear day. Around the lake, there are several more or less touristy villages, some accessible only by boat. We negotiate a turn for the day. Precision passing, as in many countries, trading is included in the sale. The advertised price depends on the client's head and is deliberately high.

We spend a short week at Lake Atitlan, with pleasant spring temperatures. We know by heart the main street and market. Children have a little more advanced in their curriculum. We would have made the ascent of San Pedro volcano but it is not easy enough for Thomas and Maëlle.

To get to La Antigua, it's either transport (chicken bus) with 2 or 3 changes (we do not really know) it's either bus chartered by travel agencies: more expensive, only gringos in, and also safer in terms of conduct is the option we choose.
The city was completely destroyed by an earthquake in the late eighteenth century, since the capital was rebuilt 50 km farther Cuidad Guatemala.

Life has gradually taken over from the colonial ruins, La Antigua now is a pleasant and picturesque town with cobblestone streets lined with low houses and colorful tiled roofs and colonial monuments, some of which are in ruins and covered vegetation.
The bus and its rows of Chichen bus, each more colorful than each other, worth a detour. The chickens are yellow school buses from the U.S., recovered in late career and painted with bright colors, they found a second youth end up dying. Popular bus, the atmosphere is that of the country, they are part of the landscape and folklore. The drivers are known for their conduct a suicide bomber nothing. Each has its charms hung around the windshield, and a maxim like "God bless this bus and its passengers." Given the state of some roads and the speed of some buses, it can not hurt ...

With treatment that is inflicted on these vehicles in terms of driving ultra sport, rutted roads, the amount of people and things ... they have transported a few good years of life before being abandoned in any place. In the U.S., they could still take a long time ... just a question of standards! It was a small digression.
Please note that travel agencies offer many treks to the surrounding volcanoes and farther to the Mayan archaeological sites (y 'but it has everywhere)

Taken from a desire to change, we decide to join the Coast and Caribbean culture in Eastern countries. Go to Guatemala City to change bus, but we drive there's nothing to see.
Coming down the mountains, the scenery changes. Through our square glass rather dusty scrolls the scenery, we find these parts of the jungle. Quite a few huts in the midst of lush vegetation. Life seems peaceful. Hammocks are installed protected by trees or houses. We meet whole families, on river banks: while mothers do the laundry, children splashing in the water.

On one night in Rio Dulce river of the same name and we leave the country of the Garifuna, unique representation of these people in Guatemala.

MC

bonus

Panajachel
Hotel San Francisco, center, pedestrian street: very cheap, we had 2 rooms for 120 Quetzales (12 €), but one night only ...
Hotel El Viajero, bitterly negotiated for 200 Q for several nights. Very clean, large room on the upper terrace in the sun. Kitchen available, wifi
comedor walking in the street Santander "Humo en tus ojio" a complete meal and good, for 15Q
The transfer by shuttle antigua, negotiated in the street for us all 300Q , just 15 minutes before departure. The guy obviously wanted to fill the van and we were lightly packed (Sylvie, 18 in your Hyundai over a mountain of luggage on the roof without a gallery, you can imagine ;-))
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